"If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent" (essextee)
12/01/2013 at 10:13 • Filed to: None
1
5|
"If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent" (essextee)
12/01/2013 at 10:13 • Filed to: None | 1
| 5 |
Not a cheap NAPA one too, it was one of the real-deal ones that you pay $1,000 for, and I got a few invisible codes that weren't triggering the CEL. I forgot to write them down but they were all for unusually high voltage through a few different circuits. What can cause this? Should I check my voltage regulator?
I can't pull the codes again because the scantool was borrowed, but IIRC they were for headlights, panel illumination, and a few different engine sensors.
Firewrx234
> If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
12/01/2013 at 10:24 |
|
Sounds like you've got a short somewhere.
|
If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
> Firewrx234
12/01/2013 at 10:28 |
|
I've got a known short in the power locks but the fuse has been pulled so there shouldn't be any current flowing through it.
SkilletHead
> If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
12/01/2013 at 10:29 |
|
So, we're missing a few bits of information. The year/make/model/trim of the car are important, as well as the codes themselves.
What circuits were they? An O2 sensor voltage over normal operating range is WAY different than voltage to the dash.
What it probably picked up on is that a few sensors are returning a voltage that is out of range. This is probably not a voltage problem, but a problem with whatever those sensors are sensing. The sensors "talk" to the computer by modifying the voltage, and the computer translates that voltage signal into something with actual meaning. So, a temperature sensor that's reading a high voltage might mean that your engine is overheating.
The first thing to do with the limited information we have available is to make sure that the battery voltage is correct. Take a multimeter to the battery terminals with the engine off. Should read about 12v. Anything more than 1v off, take it to a parts store and have them test it with their machine.
The next thing to do is make sure the charging voltage is correct. With the engine running, take a multimeter to the battery terminals. It should read 14.4v. I'd have it tested if it reads more than a half a volt or so off in either direction.
There's probably only a few parts on your car that have a different voltage than nominal 12v. The gauge cluster might be one. There might be a 5v power supply to the computer. You can test these, but honestly, it's probably not worth it. The chances of these both being off AND actually having a sensor attached to them to tell that are pretty slim. At this point, you probably need to get back to the scan tool and report the codes. The same scan tool should also be able to show you a graph or spreadsheet on what the relevant sensors are reading, too. Comparing this graph with actual readings using separate tools will narrow down whether it is a bad sensor or something else.
Also, depending on the car, some codes are simply informational. If it doesn't trigger the CEL, then it's typically not a big deal. In my car, even the power seats can trigger codes, but they don't trip the CEL.
|
If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
> SkilletHead
12/01/2013 at 10:32 |
|
2002 Dodge Neon SXT, I believe the codes were manufacturer specific. I've updated the post with what the circuits were.
|
SkilletHead
> If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
12/01/2013 at 10:37 |
|
Cool. What sort of headlights are in the car - Xenon, Halogen, or incandescent?
I'd find the specs on what normal is (it may be 5v for those systems) and test with a multimeter.